The tie-dyes of the Bai ethnic group use hand-weaved white cloth and colors extracted from plants. People use needle and thread to make different folds in a cloth and put it into a dye vat several times until the color becomes darker, while the rest of the cloth absorbs the dye, resulting in vibrant colors.
白族扎染,以線結(jié)之,而后染色,即染,則解其結(jié),凡結(jié)除皆原色,余則入染矣,其色斑斕。
A variety of items made by tie-dye. 利用扎染做出來的各種物品。
The tie-dye of the Bai ethnic group was listed as one of the "first batch of national intangible cultural heritages". Tie-dye handicrafts can be seen everywhere in the Dali Bai Autonomous Prefecture, also known as the "homeland of ethnic tie-dye". In the beautiful Bai ethnic villages at the foot of Cangshan Mountain in Dali, what kind of exquisite artworks will people create when they use their imagination and creativity in tie-dye?
白族扎染藝術(shù)是國家第一批非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)。扎染工藝,在大理地區(qū)隨處可見,被稱為“民族扎染之鄉(xiāng)”。大理蒼山腳下美麗的白族村莊,靈秀與智巧交織的動感,“布”里生花的扎染,究竟能玩出什么花樣呢?
Several local elders of the Bai ethnic group are using needle and thread to make different folds in a cloth. 當(dāng)?shù)匕鬃謇先苏谝粔K布上做出不同的褶皺。
Tie-dye Introduction 扎染簡介
Tie-dye, also known as "zhaxie" or "jiaoxie" in ancient times, is a traditional and unique dyeing technique of the Han nationality in China. As a treasure of Chinese art, the tie-dye of the Bai ethnic group showcases the traditional tie-dye craft characteristics of ethnic minorities. The dye is made from natural plant blue indigo solutions, such as liaolan, banlangen, and aihao, which grow on Cangshan Mountain. The production process includes design, tracing, tying, dyeing, untying, bleaching, inspection, and other procedures. There are traditional skills such as blue dyeing, color dyeing, and applique, and each piece is a masterpiece that puts blooming flowers in cloth.
扎染古稱扎纈、絞纈,是漢族民間傳統(tǒng)而獨(dú)特的染色工藝。作為中華藝術(shù)之瑰寶,云南大理的白族扎染,發(fā)揮民族傳統(tǒng)扎染工藝特色,染料為蒼山上生長的廖藍(lán)、板藍(lán)根、艾蒿等天然植物的藍(lán)靛溶液。工藝過程分設(shè)計(jì)、上稿、扎縫、浸染、拆線、漂洗、整檢等工序。有藍(lán)染、彩染、貼花等傳統(tǒng)技藝,每一幅都是“布”里生花的佳作。
Tie-dye cloth is drying on the roof of local buildings. Photo/Liu Chenyu 扎染布晾曬在民居房頂上。圖源 劉宸羽
Tie-dye with Natural Plants 植物顏料扎染
Zhoucheng village is famous for the tie-dye skills of the Bai ethnic group, which date back to the end of the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) and the early part of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). The characteristic buildings with white walls and blue tiles are scattered around, and pieces of blue-and-white handicrafts dance with the wind.
周城村以白族的扎染技藝而聞名,這種技藝可以追溯到明末(1368-1644)和清初(1644-1911)。在那里,一棟棟青瓦白墻的特色民居錯落有致,一塊塊藍(lán)白相間的布藝扎染隨風(fēng)輕舞。
"Puzhen Dyeing Workshop" was founded by Duan Yinkai, who grew up in a Bai ethnic tie-dye family, and her husband Duan Shukun. She has sorted and created more than 30 kinds of tie-dye techniques.
“璞真染坊”由生長在白族扎染世家的段銀開和其丈夫段樹坤開辦。她整理和自創(chuàng)的扎花扎法達(dá)30多種。
A variety of plants that can be used in the process of tie-dye. 可以用作扎染的各種植物。
Duan Shukun's dyeing skills are excellent. He believes that although there are many chemical dyes nowadays, only the traditional banlangen can dye the most authentic blue color. As a result, Duan Shukun builds the shed to plant banlangen. Duan Yinkai has also developed more than 50 local plant dyeing color cards in Dali, compiled books related to Bai ethnic tie-dye, analyzed local culture, fashion trends, and market demand, innovated tie-dye patterns, and improved the tie-dye plant dyeing process.
段樹坤染色技藝出眾。他認(rèn)為,雖然現(xiàn)在有很多化學(xué)染料,但只有傳統(tǒng)染料板藍(lán)根才能染出大理白族那抹最純正的藍(lán)。為了堅(jiān)守心中的藍(lán)色,盡管種植難度大,段樹坤依舊親自扎棚種植板藍(lán)根。她還開發(fā)了大理本土植物染色的50多種色卡,整理、編寫白族扎染相關(guān)書籍。并分析當(dāng)?shù)匚幕r尚潮流及市場需求,創(chuàng)新扎染圖案,改良扎染草木染色工藝。
Several women of the Bai ethnic group are using needle and thread to make different patterns. 當(dāng)?shù)匕鬃迮哉诓忌献龀霾煌膱D案。
Tie-dye in the Space 太空扎染
When tie-dye technique meets space exploration, namely traditional culture is combined with modern technology, what is the story behind? On the morning of March 23, 2022, the second lesson of the "Heavenly Palace Classroom" officially began. Wang Yaping, a member of the Shenzhou-13 crew, demonstrated intangible cultural heritage tie-dye during her space lecture at the Chinese Space Station.
當(dāng)扎染技藝登上太空, 當(dāng)傳統(tǒng)文化遇上現(xiàn)代科技,2022年3月23日上午,“天宮課堂”第二課正式開講,神舟十三號乘組航天員王亞平,在中國空間站進(jìn)行太空授課時,演示了非遺扎染。
Wang Yaping demonstrated intangible cultural heritage tie-dye during her space lecture at the Chinese Space Station. 王亞平在中國空間站進(jìn)行太空授課時演示了非遺扎染。
The patterns created by Wang Yaping's tie-dye resemble parachutes, and the towels used for the experiment were printed with rocket designs.
王亞平扎染出的花色酷似降落傘,輔助實(shí)驗(yàn)的毛巾上也印有火箭圖案,輔助實(shí)驗(yàn)的毛巾上也印有火箭圖案。
The patterns created by Wang Yaping's tie-dye resemble parachutes. 王亞平扎染出的花色酷似降落傘。
Tie-dye Trend 扎染浪潮
In recent years, fashion magazines both domestically and internationally have noticed that celebrities and bloggers are wearing tie-dye elements in street style. The water-washed neon halo and splashing paint evoke infinite summer vibes. Tie-dye has bloomed like flowers, instantly occupying a place in street fashion.
近年來,國內(nèi)外時尚雜志也發(fā)現(xiàn)街拍中明星、博主們都紛紛將扎染元素穿上了街。水洗霓虹光暈與飛濺的顏料,喚起了無限夏日風(fēng)情。將扎染的中國民族傳統(tǒng)技藝與不羈個性相結(jié)合,那猶如盛開花朵的扎染,瞬間在街頭潮流占領(lǐng)立足之地。
Tie-dye in Dali 去有風(fēng)的地方扎染
Recently, the TV series "Meet Yourself" has brought the millennium-old traditional handicraft tie-dye into the public view. Liu Yifei's headband, scarf and some tablecloths shown in the TV series have driven sales in the domestic market.
前不久,電視劇《去有風(fēng)的地方》帶火了一項(xiàng)傳承千年的手工藝——扎染。劉亦菲同款頭巾、發(fā)帶,還有電視劇里的一些桌布帶動了內(nèi)銷市場的爆單。
In the TV series "Meet Yourself", Liu Yifei's headband is a tie-dye handcraft. 在電視劇《去有風(fēng)的地方》中,劉亦菲的發(fā)帶是扎染手工藝品。
The "Windy Little Courtyard" in the TV series is located in Fengyangyi. The quaint village is marked by the traces of the years. However, with vibrant green plants and blooming flowers, the ancient village is full of life. Strolling through narrow alleys of the village, chatting, taking a nap, and living leisurely, making a piece of indigo-dyed fabric, experiencing pottery-making, and enjoying a pastoral life, while sipping on some wine.
劇中的“有風(fēng)小院”就在鳳陽邑,古樸的村子到處都是歲月的痕跡,古樸的村子到處都是歲月的痕跡,然而充滿生機(jī)的綠植,爭相開放的花,卻讓古村充滿生活氣息。迂回穿行在村落巷道間,在這里聊天、打盹,安閑地生活,再做一塊藍(lán)染,體驗(yàn)制作陶藝,在微醺的葡萄酒中過一段“采菊東籬下,悠然見南山”的田園生活。
Weishan Tie-dye Museum 巍山扎染博物館
The Weishan Tie-dye Museum was built in 2019, displaying over ten thousand different types of products and the processes of Weishan tie-dye over 30 years. The museum showcases the diverse hand-stitching techniques and vivid colors created through plant-based dyes used by the Yi ethnic group in Weishan.
巍山扎染博物館建成于2019年,館內(nèi)陳列了巍山扎染30余年期間的產(chǎn)品以及工藝流程。陳列產(chǎn)品單品種類過萬,琳瑯滿目的產(chǎn)品向世人展示了巍山彝族扎染多元化的手工針法技藝和植物染料所創(chuàng)造的繽紛色彩。
Tie-dye art handcrafts. 扎染藝術(shù)品。
Tie-dye can not only be used in traditional clothing production, but can also be used to create everyday items such as handkerchiefs, cloth bags, curtains, sofa cushions, and more. It not only has practical uses, but also has a unique artistic aesthetic.
扎染不僅可以用作傳統(tǒng)衣物制作,也可以做成手帕、布袋、窗簾、門簾、沙發(fā)墊等日常生活中所需要的物品,不僅具有實(shí)用性,也有別樣的藝術(shù)美感。
Visiting the museum, people can learn about the history of tie-dye in Weishan, as well as experience the dyeing and weaving facilities in the workshop.
來在扎染博物館,可以了解巍山整個扎染的歷史,還有扎染流程體驗(yàn)車間、手織布車間設(shè)施,讓每一個到館了解、學(xué)習(xí)扎染工藝的有心人都能收獲滿滿,滿載而歸。
People experience the dyeing and weaving facilities in the workshop.人們在體驗(yàn)車間制作自己的扎染手工藝品。
The charm of tie-dye lies in the fact that even if different craftsmen use the same tie-dye technique to create the same pattern, until the thread is unraveled, no one knows what breathtaking visual effect will be produced.
扎染的魅力之處在于不同的扎染手藝人即使用同一種扎染手法去制作同一種圖案,不到拆線展開的那一瞬間,誰都不知道將會得到怎樣的視覺驚艷。
Tie-dye handicrafts are displayed. 制作完成的扎染手工藝品。
The tie-dye techniques passed down through generations. The blue and white tie-dye, through the centuries, has already melted into the lives of Bai people. Today, it is not just the tie-dye of the Bai people, but carries the beauty of all the Bai people, and has traversed every corner of the world.
白族人一生離不開扎染,扎染的藍(lán)與白,透過千年時光,早已浸潤成白族人生活的底色。今天,它不僅是白族人的扎染,而是帶著所有白族的美好,走遍了世界的每個角落。
Tie-dye techniques passed down through generations. 扎染技藝世代相傳。





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